Custom made professional high quality but affordable wargame scenery buildings and terrain for Warhammer Warhammer 40k Mordheim DBA Ancients ECW and ACW wargaming using Reaper Warhammer Confrontation and Foundry 25mm figures. Base kits ruins kits scenic materials seafoam trees cork green scene scatters long grass field grass and much more.custom made professional high quality but affordable wargame scenery buildings and terrain for Warhammer Warhammer 40k Mordheim DBA Ancients ECW and ACW wargaming using Reaper Warhammer Confrontation and Foundry 25mm figures. Base kits ruins kits scenic materials seafoam trees cork green scene scatters flock static grass lichen columns ivy dead fall leaves long grass field grass and much more.Gallery of castles keeps towers watchtowers ruins tombs trees inns taverns crypts moss lichen leaves ivy dungeon creepers seafoam seamoss temples rohan house houses rivers watermills forts roman and ancient farms blacksmith Antenociti's Workshop contactshints and tips how to glues trees kits buildings basing base custom made professional high quality but affordable wargame scenery buildings and terrain for Warhammer Warhammer 40k Mordheim DBA Ancients ECW and ACW wargaming using Reaper Warhammer Confrontation and Foundry 25mm figures. Base kits ruins kits scenic materials seafoam trees cork green scene scatters flock static grass lichen columns ivy dead fall leaves long grass field grass and much more.Links to other good sites

 

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Mini-Ruins Instructions:

First of all please take some time to read the Ruins-Tips page and some of our other guides as these can help you to create far more believable and better looking ruins.
The following instructions are a concise list of the order in which you can construct the mini-ruins but you do not have to follow them to the letter.

Instructions

1: Dry Building:
First things first "dry build" your ruins. THis means placing the blocks out into the pattern that you want them to end up as. The reason we do this is to a) find out how big a base we need and b) make sure we have enough bricks to do what we want to.

2: Find a suitable base (we recommend MDF but as these ruins are small they could be based on foam board, cork or even thick card stock) and cut it to size. Then using a trimming plane or knife bevel the edges of the base where appropriate.

3: Cut out a similar sized piece of 3 or 5mm polystyrene or foam board and glue this down onto your base.

4: Dry-build your ruins on top of the polystyrene and using a marked pen outline all the blocks onto the polystyrene.

5: Remove the blocks and cut out "foundations" (See ruins-tips) where you will then place your blocks and glue them into place.

6: Once all blocks are glued into place take some cork boulders and glue them onto the blocks to represent broken pieces of masonry, bricks and rubble. You can also damage the plaster blocks themselves by snipping off pieces using pliers if you wish.

7: Once the glue has dried paint everything black making sure that you cover all the gaps and surfaces of the walls and the cork. Next dry-brush the walls from dark through to very light gray or even white. (Follow this link if you want to know how to dry-brush).

8: Carefully paint around the base of the walls and any rubble on the ground in a dark brown and once that has dried start to glue down the scatters. It is best to spread the scatters out in patches that blend into each other rather than trying to cover the entire area in one colour, don't be afraid to deliberately leave patches of just brown scatter representing bare earth.

9: Once the scatter is fixed down apply the static grass (See here for tips on using static grass)

10: Make some "Lichen bushes" by coating small clumps of lichen with the Bush scatter and then glue the lichen down using tacky glue (if you want to make a tall bush you can help it stand up by sticking part of toothpick down through the lichen bush)

11. Add small clumps of tall grass around the ruin and growing from cracks and joins in blocks.

You should now have a great looking mini-ruin!

 

Additional Notes for the "Drunken Tower"

To get your tower to lean "drunkenly" you need to do the following:

1: FInd some 10mm styrofoam (you can use two small sheets of foamboard) and then make the outer pieces of the tower and the staircase separately.

2: Place the styrofoam onto your base board (a 6 inch by 6 inch piece of MDF is ideal) and place the outer piece of the tower onto the styrofoam, Now mark around the base of the tower.

3: Cut out the section of styrofoam where the tower blocks will be so that when you place the outer piece of the tower back in they will slot down into the "foundation" trench you have just cut in the styrofoam. Do NOT through away the cut-out pieces.

4: Now cut a similar hole for the stairway.

5: Take the piece of styrofoam that you have cut out for the outer piece of the tower and cut it in half so you have a quarter circle piece, Now cut it across so that it is about 5mm thick. Take that section and glue it back down into the slot you cut in the main piece of styrofoam. What you should now have is the main section of styrofoam with a circular trench cut into it into which the outer section of the tower can fit. Inside that trench is a 5mm quarter-circle section of styrofoam.

6: You can now place the tower wall back into the "foundation" trench and the tower will lean at a slight angle but still be supported. Before you glue it into place ensure that the stairway fits into the hole you have cut for it and fits snugly inside the tower. The stairway can be left level so that figures can stand on its top section without falling off.

 

 

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http://workshop.barrule.com . Cityscapes and backdrops with permission of & Copyright© www.svenart.3dk.org