Custom made professional high quality but affordable wargame scenery buildings and terrain for Warhammer Warhammer 40k Mordheim DBA Ancients ECW and ACW wargaming using Reaper Warhammer Confrontation and Foundry 25mm figures. Base kits ruins kits scenic materials seafoam trees cork green scene scatters long grass field grass and much more.custom made professional high quality but affordable wargame scenery buildings and terrain for Warhammer Warhammer 40k Mordheim DBA Ancients ECW and ACW wargaming using Reaper Warhammer Confrontation and Foundry 25mm figures. Base kits ruins kits scenic materials seafoam trees cork green scene scatters flock static grass lichen columns ivy dead fall leaves long grass field grass and much more.Gallery of castles keeps towers watchtowers ruins tombs trees inns taverns crypts moss lichen leaves ivy dungeon creepers seafoam seamoss temples rohan house houses rivers watermills forts roman and ancient farms blacksmith Antenociti's Workshop contactshints and tips how to glues trees kits buildings basing base custom made professional high quality but affordable wargame scenery buildings and terrain for Warhammer Warhammer 40k Mordheim DBA Ancients ECW and ACW wargaming using Reaper Warhammer Confrontation and Foundry 25mm figures. Base kits ruins kits scenic materials seafoam trees cork green scene scatters flock static grass lichen columns ivy dead fall leaves long grass field grass and much more.Links to other good sites

 

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The LICU (Liquid Intensive Care Unit)

Note: please excuse the poor quality of painting and images - trying to get this out in time for SALUTE 2007!

Paint up the base section and then carefully trim away the paint and primer from the inner side of the mounting ring (the light blue area shown in the circle below)

1

Firmly push the Perspex tube into the mounting ring so that it fits flush with the bottom - you can now align and glue into place the various add-on pieces. All of the pieces have a rough bottom edge which should be aligned downwards and any pieces that you attach to the bottom of the tube should ONLY be glued in place when the tube is fitted on to the mounting plate (otherwise they will stop the tube being seated properly)

Once that is done glue on the front control desk:

The two pieces of acrylic rod should align with the two large pipes, whilst the finer electrical cables should align to the junction box on the rear of the control panel as shown below.

 

Doing the pipe work:
The pipe work is very simple to do and requires a small pair of scissors, some medium super-glue, tweezers, cocktail stick and a hair-dryer.

Cut a small section of heat-shrink-tube, roughly 6-10mm long and place it over the end of the provided cord:

Next position the tube so that it overlaps the end of the cord by about 4-5mm and then hold just that end section over the hair-dryer whilst on hot - BE CAREFUL not to burn your fingers, also do not hold the cord in the heat other than the very end with the heat-shrink-tube on it.

As shown below the tube will shrink leaving you with an instant connection-end.

Place this against where youw ant it to go on the perspex tube and cut it slightly shorter than the required distance:

Now take another piece of heat-shrink and put it over the end, heat it as previously to end up with a double-ended piece like this:

Glue one end, using super glue, to the fan/mixer:

Now squeeze out a small pool of super glue on to a scrap piece of card, take a cocktail stick and dip the end in the super glue; using just the tip run the super glue carefully along the cord and the end piece:

Then push into place using the tweezers:

If you are unsure of the exact length needed you can attach a longer-than-necessary piece of heat-shrink to the end of the cord and then trim it down to the correct length when part-glued into place (when doing this make sure that the part of the heat-shrink that is shrunk is long enough so that it can be trimmed down!)

When trying to do complex shapes and bends it is easiest to glue into place both ends of the cord - when they are set firmly you can then use the cocktail stick to apply super glue carefully to the underside of the cord then gently push into position to set.

Repeat as necessary until you have enough "pipe" for your tastes.

To paint the pipe all you need do is apply some metallic paint and perhaps a thin wash of black to bring out the texture/pattern - the heat-shrink does not need to be painted.

Finally apply the screens and you're done!

 

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All Rights Reserved 2004. Images and model designs Copyright © Antenociti's Workshop™ 2004.
http://workshop.barrule.com . Cityscapes and backdrops with permission of & Copyright© www.svenart.3dk.org